All Chef Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Top Restaurants.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.
A Shocking Honour
This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.
“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.
A Namesake Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.
Surpassing the Stars
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.
A Philosophy of Hospitality
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
The Journey of Dedication
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
A Accomplishment for the Culture
This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.